Hi everyone and welcome to The Summer Fling Cardi crochet pattern. This is a nice and quick little make. It is perfect for warm weather teamed with a little tank top. It is made to measure so you can use any ply of yarn and hook. You will be using your own body measurements to make this garment. I can’t wait to see everyone’s version of The Summer Fling Cardi.
Written in US Terms – Advanced Beginner
This pattern is also available to purchase in pdf form -
| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL |
Chest (cm) | 71-76 | 81-86 | 91.5 - 96.5 | 101.5-106.5 | 111.5-117 | 122-127 | 132-137 | 142-147 | 152-158 |
Armhole Depth (cm) | 17.5 | 18.5 | 20 | 21.5 | 22.5 | 24 | 25 | 26.5 | 27.5 |
Length (cm) | 39 | 39 | 39 | 47 | 47 | 47 | 55 | 55 | 55 |
Yarn Est. in grams | 105g | 120g | 140g | 175g | 190g | 210g | 265g | 280g | 310g |
* Yarn Estimate is based on dk yarn & 5mm hook with a short length cardi. Mine is 39cm long.
Tools
Any yarn – For my olive cardi I used Deramores Anti pilling dk – Product Link - Deramores Dk at Lovecrafts
For my grey speckled cardi I used Violet Twist Hand Dyed Sock Yarn DK from Twinkknits – Product Link - Violet Twist at Twinkknits
Hook to match yarn – I used a 5mm hook, but you can use any hook that matches your yarn.
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Dressmakers Tape Measure
Stitch Markers
Blocking Mats
Handheld Steamer (Optional)
Notes
· Ch3 counts as a st.
· The RS of each panel should have the foundation row and Row 1 and 3 of the dc section facing forward.
Stitches
ch – chain
chsp – chain space
dc – double crochet
fdc – foundation double crochet
rpt – repeat
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
sk - skip
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
*…* - repeat instructions in between the symbols.
Construction
This garment is worked up in 3 panels. Two for the front and one for the back, which will then be seamed at the shoulders and the sides. You can make it any length that you wish. The panels will need to be blocked before seaming. There will be a small section on this in the pattern.
Right, let’s get to it!...
Pattern
Working out the back Panel Measurement
First you will need to measure your chest. Take that measurement and add 5cm.
For example, my chest is 84 so 84 + 5 = 89cm
Next you will divide that number by 2…
89 / 2 = 44.5cm
I will need to work my back panel to roughly 44.5cm.
Working out the Front Panels
Because you divided your chest measurement by 2, you will have half of that number left. One half is for the back panel and the other half is for the front panels. My number is 44.5cm.
You will need to take a little bit from this measurement to compensate for your neck. I went for 5cm as it will stretch out during the blocking process. You can use this measurement too or you can add or minus a little bit more. Next you will minus this number from the front panel section.
44.5 – 5 = 39.5cm
Now you will need to divide that number by 2 to get the measurement for both front panels…
39.5 / 2 = 19.75cm – I decided to round this number up to 20cm.
This means my back panel is 44.5cm wide and my two front panels are both 20cm wide.
Back Panel = Chest measurement + 5 divided by 2
Front Panels = Chest measurement + 5 divided by 2, then minus 5 and divide by 2 one more time.
You will start all the panels with a dc foundation row. A foundation row has more stretch to it so can be ideal for garments. It is also more accurate when working made to measure patterns. Do not stretch the foundation row when measuring.
Back Panel
You will need to make your foundation row the same length as your back panel measurement, and you also need to make sure that the number of stitches is dividable by 3 + 1. (See the section below in bold for more detail).
How to create a foundation dc
To do a fdc, ch3 or 4 whichever you prefer, yarn over, insert hook into the 1st ch, *pull up a loop (draw this loop up to meet with your st to stop having a curved foundation row), you will have 3 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through the 1st loop, yarn over and pull through the next 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops,* to add extra sts you will yarn over and insert your hook into the top of the previous st, rpt the instructions in between *….*
For a visual tutorial click here - Foundation Double Crochet Tutorial
Keep working up your foundation sts until you reach the measurement for your back panel. Make sure that the number of stitches used are dividable by 3.
Make a note of your st count as you will be adding sections of dc in your cardi. Mine was 72 which is dividable by 3 then I added the +1 which made my total st count 73sts.
Mesh Section
Row 1
Ch9, turn, sk 2sts (make sure you don’t include the base of the ch9 – see pic), 1sc in next st, *ch6, sk 2sts, 1sc in next st* - rpt until 3sts remain, ch6, sk 2sts, 1dc in the final st.
Row 2
Ch6, turn, 1sc straight down into the first chsp, *ch6, sk sc, 1sc in next chsp* - rpt until 1 chsp remains, ch6, sk sc, 1sc in the final chsp, ch3, 1dc in the 3rd ch
of the ch9 from the previous row.
It will be looking a little scraggy right now, but
that’s fine as you will reshape it when you block it. It will also form a better shape when you start adding in the DC Section.
Row 3
Ch9, turn, sk the first chsp and sc, 1sc in next chsp, *ch6, sk sc, 1sc in next chsp* - rpt until the final chsp remains, ch6, sk sc and the final chsp, 1dc in the 3rd ch of the ch6 from the previous row.
Row 4 – Rpt Row 2
Row 5 – Rpt Row 3
Row 6 – Rpt Row 2
Row 7 – Rpt Row 3
Double Crochet section
Next you will add 3 rows of dc.
Row 1
Ch3, turn, *2dc in the next chsp, 1dc in the next st (which will be the sc from the previous row) * - rpt until 1 chsp remains, 2dc in the final chsp, 1dc in the 3rd ch of the ch9 from the previous row. – You should have the same amount of sts as your fdc row.
Row 2
Ch3, turn, 1dc in next st, 1dc in every st, place the final dc in the top of the ch3 from the previous row.
Row 3 – Rpt Row 2
Now you will just keep repeating the Mesh Section, followed by the Double Crochet Section until you are happy with the length. You will end on the Mesh Section and then add Row 1 of the Double Crochet Section and that will be the final row. Hold the panel from your shoulders down to check the length, but bear in mind it will get slightly longer when you block it. I made 2 Double Crochet Sections and 3 Mesh Sections.
Front Panels
The front panels are worked up the same as the back panel but remember to use the front panel measurements. Mine is 20cm, so I will work up 2 front panels to 20cm and make them the exact same length as the back panel. Remember your st count needs to be dividable by 3+1.
Blocking
You will need to block all 3 panels before moving on to seaming. I would advise you not to skip this section, otherwise your cardigan will be misshapen.
I use blocking mats and T pins, along with a handheld steamer. If you don’t have a steamer, you can spritz your work with water and let it air dry. Stretch and pin out all 3 panels at the same time so you can make them even with the length and the width. If using a steamer, pin dry and then go over it a few times with the steamer and let it air dry fully. If you don’t have a steamer, you can wet it first before pinning, or pin and spritz with water and air dry fully before removing the pins.
I have use blocking mats with T pins Link for Blocking Mats
I also use a handheld steamer Link for handheld steamer
Assembling
Now you will assemble your cardi together. We will be working on the RS of the cardi for both shoulder and side seams.
Lay out the back panel with WS facing up (You can choose which side is wrong and which side is right. I chose to make the foundation row and the 1st and 3rd row of the dcs, RS facing). Next lay both front panels on top of the back panel so they are RS facing up, this means your back and front panels will be WS together.
You can seam however you wish. I will also explain how I seamed my cardi together below.
Seaming
Using a needle and yarn, you will seam the shoulders by going through the centre loops only. Cut a long strand of yarn. Start from the edge and seam towards the centre.
This is how the seam will look from the outside of the cardigan.
Rpt for both front panels and weave in ends securely.
Side Seams
Sizes written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL),
For the sides, I will be using an invisible seam which is worked on the RS of the cardi, and it pushes the seam to the inside. If you have a preferred seaming method, then you can use that instead. For my seam, follow the instructions below…
Take a tape measure and measure down one side from the top 17.5cm (18.5cm, 20cm, 21.5cm, 22.5cm, 24cm, 25cm, 26.5cm, 27.5cm), place a st marker around the bar closest to this measurement, be sure to go through both panels evenly. I counted the rows down from the shoulder seam on the back panel, then counted the same number of rows on the front panel so I knew it was even.
Take your tapestry needle and cut a long strand of yarn, try to flatten out the panels so they are side by side, RS facing you.
If you would prefer a visual tutorial, then click on the link below…
Start off by going through the bottom corner on the left panel and then the bottom corner of the right panel and then back to the left corner to help secure the yarn.
Next, weave your needle through the 1st fdc bar on the left-hand side and pull the yarn through.
Rpt the same process for the right side.
Come back to the left panel and weave your yarn through the next tc bar/ch, and then do the same for the right side. Keep repeating this until you reach the st marker, making sure you keep each row lined up together on both panels. Weave in ends securely.
Rpt for the opposite side.
That’s it! You are all done!
If you wish you can add some sc rows around the front panels and neckline, but I chose to leave mine as it is!
Another option could be adding fringe/tassels around the bottom edge!
I hope you enjoyed making The Summer Fling Cardi. Be sure to tag and share any pictures or videos on Instagram, Facebook, Tik Tok, YouTube & Threads so I can see your wonderful creations!
@craftandacuppa #thesummerflingcardi #craftandacuppa
©CraftandaCuppa2023 Please do not re sell or use my pictures from this pattern. You can sell the finished that you make if you wouldn’t mind crediting me as the designer.
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