The Mystical Mesh Vest Crochet Pattern
By
Craft and a Cuppa
Hi everyone and welcome to the Mystical Mesh Vest Crochet Pattern. For this garment you will be using your own body measurements to create a cute boho vest perfect for the summer or layered in the winter! You can use any ply/fibre of yarn and any hook. I look forward to seeing everyone’s version of the Mystical Mesh Vest.
Written in US terms Advanced Beginner
If you would like to purchase the pdf file for this patttern then click the links below...
| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL |
Chest Cir. (cm) | 71-76 | 81-86 | 91.5-96.6 | 101.5-106.5 | 111.5-117 | 122-127 | 132-137 | 142-147 | 152-158 |
Thigh Length yarn Est. dk & 5mm hook | 170g | 190g | 210g | 230g | 250g | 280g | 300g | 320g | 340g |
Calf Length yarn Est. Bamboo dk & 4mm hook | 240g | 270g | 310g | 340g | 370g | 400g | 430g | 460g | 490g |
Tools
Any yarn – For my thigh length vest I used Kaleidoscope Hand Dyed Sock Yarn dk from Twinkknits – Product Link - Kaleidoscope dk
For my calf length vest, I used Walnut Tree Bamboo Cotton. The drape is beautiful!
Hook to match yarn – I used a 5mm hook with the Kaleidoscope yarn and a 4mm with the Bamboo Cotton, but you can use any hook size that you wish.
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Dressmakers Tape Measure
Stitch Markers
Stitches
ch – Chain
chsp(s) – Chain Spaces
fdc – Foundation Double Crochet
rpt - Repeat
RS - Right side
sc – Single Crochet
sk – Skip
slst - Slip Stitch
st(s) – Stitch(es)
tc – Treble Crochet
tc2tog – Treble Crochet Two Together
WS - Wrong side
*…* - Repeat Instructions in between the Symbols.
Notes
· Ch3 and Ch4 counts as a stitch.
· Ch5 = 1tc plus 1ch.
· You can pick which side is RS and which side is WS. It really doesn’t matter.
Construction
This garment is made from the bottom up and worked back and forth in rows. Then you will add the straps. The straps are worked in 4 stages, 2 on the front of the garment until they reach the top of your shoulder, then 2 on the back of the garment which are then joined together at the top of the strap.
Right, lets crack on…
Pattern
First you will need to measure your chest. Take that measurement and add 10cm, that is how long you will be making your foundation row. For example, my chest is 84 so 84 + 10 = 94cm – Therefore I made my foundation row to 94cm.
If you would like your vest to be wider, you can add a few more cms if you wish.
You will start the pattern with a dc foundation row, and you will need to end on an odd number. A foundation row has more stretch to it so can be ideal for garments. Do not stretch the foundation row when measuring.
If you prefer you can start with a ch instead. I would suggest going up a hook size for the ch and then returning to your original hook size for the remainder of the pattern. You will need an odd number of chs.
How to create a foundation dc
To do a foundation dc, ch3 or 4 whichever you prefer, yarn over, insert hook into the 1st ch, *pull up a loop (draw this loop up to meet with your st to stop having a curved foundation row), you will have 3 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through the 1st loop, yarn over and pull through the next 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops,* to add extra sts you will yarn over and insert your hook into the top of the previous st, rpt the instructions in between *….*
For a visual tutorial click here - Foundation Double Crochet Tutorial
Keep a note of your st count, it needs to be the same for every round – odd number. Once your fdc has reached has reached your measurement, head to Row 2.
If you decided to start with a ch instead of fdc then you will need to add 1 row of dc. Follow the instructions below for Row 1.
Row 1 – (Ch start only)
Ch3, dc in 4th ch from the hook, dc in every ch. (You should have an odd number of sts).
Row 2
Ch5, turn, sk next st, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk next st* - rpt to the end of the row, 1tc in the final st.
Row 3
Ch5, turn, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk next chsp* - rpt to the end of the row, 1tc in the final st (the 4th ch of the ch5 from the previous row).
Now you will just keep repeating round 3 until you are happy with the length. Hold the garment up, just underneath your armpit area to check the length of the vest.
Do not fasten off.
Straps
If you would like visual guidance on strap placement, then here is a link…Mystical Mesh Vest Video Tutorial
Time stamp is…13:33
To figure out where you would like your straps to start, you will need to hold the garment around you, make sure it is just under your armpit. You will need to decide how wide to make the base of your strap.
I went for right at the side of my front chest. Place a st marker in the st that you have picked. Now you will count the sts from the st marker to the centre edge and the count the same amount of sts for the opposite side and place a st marker.
I had 15 sts from my st marker to the cente edge, so I counted 15 sts on the opposite side and placed a st marker in the 15th st. Please note my stitch count is different than my video tutorial st count as I used a different yarn and hook size.
You will make the front staps before working out where to place the back st markers.
Front Straps
You will work your front straps until you are happy with the length. The straps will need to reach the top centre of your shoulder. I went for a relaxed fit and had my strap hang a few cms under my armpit. I worked my strap to 20cm. You can use this as a guide for your own straps, but can always add or take away any extra length to suit your own body shape.
First Front Strap
If you would like visual guidance on the first front strap, then here is a link…Mystical Mesh Vest Video Tutorial
Time stamp is…16:37
Start from where you left off on the main body panel…
You will start each decrease row with a ch4.
Row 1 – Decrease Row
Ch4, turn, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk chsp* - rpt until you reach the st with the next st marker, place final tc in the st with the st marker.
Row 2 – Decrease Row
Ch4, turn, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk chsp* - rpt until you reach the final tc and ch4 from the beginning of the previous row, sk the next st and place the final tc in the top of the ch4 from the previous row.
Keep repeating Row 2 until you are either happy with the number of decreases, or you are getting close to your desired length. You will need to add a couple of non-increase rows towards the end as it will make seaming the straps together much easier.
First Row After Decrease Rows
Ch5, turn, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk chsp* - rpt until you reach the final tc and ch4 from the beginning of the previous row, sk the next st and place the final tc in the top of the ch4 from the previous row.
Remaining Strap Rows
Ch5, turn, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk chsp* - rpt to end of the row, 1tc in final st – the last st will be the 4th ch of the ch5 from the previous row.
Keep repeating the remaining strap rows until the strap reaches the centre top of your shoulder and you happy with the length and fit of the strap. You will need to wrap the body panel around you, the same way as when you were working out the strap placements.
I worked my strap length to 20cm for a looser fit.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
Tip – Keep the st marker in place as it can help with the placement of the back straps.
Second Front Strap
If you would like visual guidance on the second front strap, then here is a link…Mystical Mesh Vest Video Tutorial
Time stamp is…34:15
Now you will go to the opposite side of the body panel and work the second front strap starting from the st marker and working out to the edge.
The second front strap is going to be worked up a little different as we will need to mimic what we have just done on the opposite side.
tc2tog - Yarn over twice, sk chsp, insert hook into next st, yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 1st 2 loops on hook, yarn over, pull through next 2 loops on hook, (2 loops on hook), yarn over twice, sk chsp, insert hook into next st, yarn over, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 1st 2 loops on hook, yarn over, pull through next 2 loops on hook, (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Row 1 – Decrease Row
Attach yarn in the same st as the st marker with a slst, ch5, sk chsp, 1tc in next st, *ch1, sk chsp, 1tc in next st* - rpt until there are 2sts left, ch1, tc2tog using the remaining 2sts – be sure to sk over the chsps. – If the final st is a ch5, make sure you insert your hook into the 4th ch.
Row 2 – Decrease Row
Ch5, turn, sk the tc2tog and next chsp, 1tc in next st, *ch1, sk chsp, 1tc in next st* - rpt until there are 2sts left, ch1, tc2tog using the remaining 2sts – the last st will be the 4th ch of the ch5 from the previous row.
Repeat row 2 until you have the same amount of decrease rows as the opposite strap. Remember to count the last 2sts of the previous row as 1 st as that is the decrease st.
Remaining Strap Rows
Ch5, turn, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk chsp* - rpt to end of the row, 1tc in final st – the last st will be the 4th ch of the ch5 from the previous row.
Keep repeating the remaining strap rows until you have the same number of rows as the opposite strap.
Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming. Tip – Keep the st marker in place as it can help with the placement of the back straps.
Back Straps
If you would like visual guidance on the back strap placement, then here is a link…Mystical Mesh Vest Video Tutorial
Time stamp is…45:35
Next you will need to find the centre st between the front straps so we can begin to mark out where the back straps will go. Lay your garment out flat and count the sts between both front straps. Place a st marker in the middle st – if you don’t have an even number of sts then you will have to place it in the middle chsp instead.
If your st marker is in a chsp, then you will count the number of sts either side of the chsp.
If your st marker is in a st then you will count the sts either side of this st.
I had 49 sts so I took 1 away to make it 48
48/2 =24
I then added the '1' st that I took away which made it 25. That means I placed my st marker in the 25th st and had 24 sts either side of the st marker.
You will not be working into the centre st with the st marker, but starting with the sts either side.
Count out the same number of sts each side of the st marker as the front panels. Mine was 15 sts. Place a st marker in the final st on both sides.
Right side back strap
If you would like visual guidance on the right side back strap, then here is a link…Mystical Mesh Vest Video Tutorial
Time stamp is…53:36
Before attaching your yarn, make sure that the 1st row of the front straps is right side facing.
Row 1 – Decrease Row
Attach yarn in the same st as the st marker with a slst, ch5, sk chsp, 1tc in next st, *ch1, sk chsp, 1tc in next st* - rpt until there are 2sts left before the centre st marker, ch1, tc2tog using the remaining 2sts – be sure to sk over the chsps.
Row 2 – Decrease Row
Ch5, turn, sk the tc2tog and next chsp, 1tc in next st, *ch1, sk chsp, 1tc in next st* - rpt until there are 2sts left, ch1, tc2tog using the remaining 2sts – the last st will be the 4th ch of the ch5 from the previous row.
Repeat row 2 until you have the same amount of decrease rows as the front straps. Remember to count the last 2sts of the previous row as 1 st as that is the decrease st.
Remaining Strap Rows
Ch5, turn, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk chsp* - rpt to end of the row, 1tc in final st – the last st will be the 4th ch of the ch5 from the previous row.
Keep repeating the remaining strap rows until you have the same number of rows as the front straps.
Fasten off.
This is how your vest should be looking after adding the first back strap.
Left Side Back Strap
If you would like visual guidance on the left side back strap, then here is a link…Mystical Mesh Vest Video Tutorial
Time stamp is…01:01:52
You will start each decrease row with a ch4.
Row 1 – Decrease Row
Attach yarn in the 1st st after the centre st marker, ch4, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk chsp* - rpt until you reach the st with the next st marker, place final tc in the st with the st marker.
Row 2 – Decrease Row
Ch4, turn, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk chsp* - rpt until you reach the final tc and ch4 from the beginning of the previous row, sk the next st and place the final tc in the top of the ch4 from the previous row.
Repeat row 2 until you have the same amount of decrease rows as the front straps.
First Row After Decrease Rows
Sk chsp & st, place final tc in the top of the ch4 from the previous row. Ch5, turn, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk chsp* - rpt until you reach the final tc and ch4 from the beginning of the previous row, sk the next st and place the final tc in the top of the ch4 from the previous row.
Remaining Strap Rows
Ch5, turn, sk chsp, *1tc in next st, ch1, sk chsp* - rpt to end of the row, 1tc in final st – the last st will be the 4th ch of the ch5 from the previous row.
Keep repeating the remaining strap rows until you have the same number of rows as the front straps.
Fasten off.
Joining the Straps
You can join your straps however you wish. I decided to use my hook and join with single crochet st. I turned my garment inside out and then placed a sc through the front and back straps, through every st and every chsp. I then fastened off, tried on my garment to check the fit and weaved in my ends. If the straps are too short then you can add more rows to the straps, or if they are too long, you can take rows away. Just make sure that when you come to join them together, you have the same amount of chsps and sts on both the front and back strap.
That’s it, you’re all done!!!
I hope you enjoyed making the Mystical Mesh Vest. Be sure to tag and share any pictures or videos on Instagram, Facebook, Tik Tok, YouTube & Threads so I can see your wonderful creations!
@craftandacuppa #mysticalmeshvest
Comments